Christomannos Monument and Paolina Mountain Hut

DESCRIPTION
Following the footsteps of T. Christomannos: a circular hike in the southern Catinaccio.

Geographical location
The Paolina and Roda di Vael mountain huts are located in the southern part of the Catinaccio Group (Rosengarten in German), a Dolomitic massif situated between the autonomous provinces of Trento and Bolzano. The group extends between the Tires Valley, the Ega Valley and the Fassa Valley, ideally marking the border between the Italian and Germanic cultures of South Tyrol.
The Roda di Vael Mountain Hut stands at 2,283 meters above sea level on the Ciampaz Saddle, at the foot of Croz di Santa Giuliana, in the municipality of Vigo di Fassa. The Paolina Mountain Hut is located at 2,125 meters, accessible via the chairlift of the same name departing from the Carezza area.

Hike
The circular route connecting the two mountain huts represents one of the most appreciated itineraries in the southern Catinaccio, accessible to hikers of medium experience. The route presents no challenging technical passages and can be tackled in any season, even in winter with snowshoes, except in adverse weather conditions. Starting from Costalunga Pass, the total positive elevation gain slightly exceeds 500 meters, with a total hiking time of approximately 3 and a half hours.
The itinerary initially winds along a forest dirt road through coniferous woods, following trail marker 548. After reaching the Tre Baite locality, the panorama gradually opens toward the Fassa Valley and the Latemar massif. From here the trail becomes steeper and more interesting, climbing through alpine pastures and scree slopes to the Roda di Vael Mountain Hut. The mountain hut, open from early June to mid-October, enjoys a privileged position with views spanning from Lagorai to the Pale di San Martino, from Marmolada to the Sella Group and the Cigolade.
From the mountain hut, a beautiful high-altitude panoramic trail (marker 549) leads in about 20 minutes to the monument dedicated to Theodor Christomannos: an imposing 2.50-meter-high bronze eagle dominating the landscape. The descent to the Paolina Mountain Hut is short and comfortable. The Paolina Mountain Hut, also accessible via chairlift from Carezza operating year-round, is particularly busy in winter thanks to its location within the Carezza Dolomites ski area. On the return, be careful not to invade the ski slopes.

History and curiosities
Theodor Christomannos was born in Vienna on July 31, 1854, into a wealthy family of Greek-Macedonian origins. After graduating in law and working as a magistrate and lawyer in Merano, he abandoned his legal profession to dedicate himself completely to promoting alpine tourism. Christomannos is considered one of the true pioneers of tourism in the Dolomites: in 1895 he founded the Verein für Alpenhotels in Tirol (Association for Alpine Hotels in Tyrol), building numerous hotels and mountain huts, including the Roda di Vael Mountain Hut.
His most ambitious project was the construction of the Dolomites Road, an artery that from Bolzano crosses the entire Dolomitic arc to Cortina d'Ampezzo. This work, considered his masterpiece, definitively opened these mountains to modern tourism. He died in Merano on January 30, 1911, at only 56 years old. One year after his death, in 1912, the bronze eagle monument was erected in his honor on the Ciampaz Saddle. The monument suffered partial destruction and was rebuilt in 1959; today it represents a symbolic reference point for hikers in the Catinaccio.
Enrosadira is an optical phenomenon whereby the Dolomitic peaks take on reddish and rosy colorations, gradually shading toward purple, especially at dawn and sunset. The term derives from the Ladin word rosadüra or enrosadöra, which literally means to become pink-colored. The phenomenon is due to the particular composition of dolomite rock, rich in calcium and magnesium carbonate, which intensely reflects sunlight when it passes through the atmosphere at low angles.

ITINERARY
From the parking area at Costalunga Pass (1,752 m), ascend on a dirt road following trail marker 548, arriving at the Tre Baite locality (1,915 m). Continue on trail 548, climbing to the Roda di Vael Mountain Hut (2,283 m). Then take the high-altitude trail no. 549 to reach the Theodor Christomannos Monument (2,276 m), then descend via trail 539 to the Paolina Mountain Hut (2,125 m). Return to the starting point descending on trails 552 and 548.

EXCURSION DATE
January 4, 2026

STARTING POINT
Costalunga Pass

REFRESHMENT POINT
Paolina Mountain Hut

AUTHOR'S SUGGESTIONS
Consult the avalanche bulletin before departing.

SAFETY ADVICE
The feasibility of the proposed itinerary, like all mountain terrain, is subject to environmental changes due to natural events and weather conditions. Therefore, before departing, consult the relevant tourist offices and/or reference mountain huts.
Our GPX tracks are only indicative, meaning the route was completed under the best conditions with the trails and weather of that day. Therefore, always evaluate what to do on-site.
Additionally, remember to assess the route based on your physical capabilities, training, and available equipment.
It is advisable to inform someone of the itinerary you intend to follow.
Remember that the emergency number is 112.

EQUIPMENT
It is recommended to have equipment suitable for the route, weather conditions, and season: windproof and/or waterproof jacket, map and/or GPS device, sunglasses, sunscreen, hiking boots, first aid kit, specific clothing, gloves, backpack with food and beverages.

RECOMMENDED MAPS
Tabacco 06 Val di Fassa and Fassa Dolomites

INTERESTING LINKS
https://www.paolina-huette.com/

HOW TO ARRIVE
A22 motorway, Bolzano North exit. Take the SP241 Ega Valley to Costalunga Pass.

PARKING AREA
At Costalunga Pass
GPS Coordinates: 46.404310, 11.613229

Parcheggio a Passo di Costalunga

Località Tre Baite

Ultima baita

Si vedono i due rifugi

Arrivo al Rifugio Roda di Vael

Vista dall'alto

Rifugio Roda di Vael e Baita Pederiva

Vista verso il Sella e la Marmolada

Si va verso il Rifugio Paolina

Il sentiero è pianeggiante

Il Monumento a T. Christomannos

L'inconfondibile aquila

Si scende

Il Rifugio Paolina

Si scende a valle